Horns blared and shabab (youth) shouted early this morning as they lapped the neighborhoods in their cars. It was too early for a wedding (as those are the typical sounds accompanying a wedding procession). The exam results were just released for the high school seniors. Similar to the SATs, these tests are prepped for with sweat and tears, but differ in that the scores determine the university as well as the major a student can pursue. This morning they celebrated. Early.
Yesterday I ventured into East Amman to help out at the Modern Arab School. It was similar to crossing the Walt Whitman bridge from Philadelphia into Camden. The socioeconomic disparity between these two sides of the city was obvious. My two friends and I took a bus to the school where over 300 Iraqi refugees attend each day to study English. The school is run by the Jesuit Church and offers many services to the large Iraqi population in Amman. We were able to sit in on an advanced English class and an art class for the children.
The English class was a brilliant display of Arab mentality. During introductions, two elderly women - well dressed and with their make-up done as fastidiously as the university girls - questioned us about Western behavior towards the East in the past decade. Once our answers proved satisfactory enough, the class broke into two teams to conduct a debate on food. I can't describe the discussions that went on as they made their points, but even with a simple debate like the role of food, the class took their positions seriously (or at least argued it seriously). At one point, I whispered to my colleague, "I bet that momentarily, English will be forgotten." And just seconds later the class erupted and the two sides yelled at each other in Arabic and the poor ESL teacher was beside herself trying to reign them in.
It's not that they were angry, it's just how it is here. Afterward, the two most heated debaters kissed each other goodbye as they promised to continue the debate in the class next week.
In the art class, non of the children spoke English. The children kept laughing and laughing at my attempt to say butterfly, swing-set and slide. But, if there is something I know how to do to connect with people, it is art. It is such a happy thing to sit with 40 second graders and draw pictures of your house, your yard or your pet. When the bell rang, they boys and girls handed me their pictures so I could sign my name in Arabic and English. Anyone can be a celebrity if they find the right crowd.
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