There are obviously many things about a Jordanian lifestyle that differs from my own in the states.  One of those differences is one I would love to adopt: visiting hours.  This is the time of day, when the stars are just appearing, when the family is mostly gathered around the TV - but of course never paying attention to it - and dinner is finished.  Then there is a call from outside, "Ya Abu Nadeem!" (translated: hey you, father of Nadeem - the oldest son in the house).  The visitor is warmly greeted with multiple kisses (the kiss per cheek ratio is one I am still trying to figure out) and he or she is either brought inside, or if the evening is nice - which it most often is - everyone gathers on the veranda.  Samanti the maid, is called for to bring chai and something sweet to nibble on, either some figs or a fruit dessert.  The next hour or so is spent, talking, arguing, playing cards, and just visiting in the cool evening breeze enjoying hot chai from juice glasses.  It is lovely.  Almost every night, a neighbor or relative calls, no invitation or calling ahead, because a welcome is always guaranteed. I love visiting hour.

Thought I should share a little culture with you in this blog.  Let me introduce you to knafe.  It is a delicious traditional dessert made with warm sweet cheese encased and fried in shredded phylo pastry.  A pomegranate sauce can be served with it.  It looks like this:

And then there is Nancy.  She is the family favorite as far as singers go.  Amman loves her too.  There is one song that plays everywhere and the music video is entertaining.  You can listen to the song here: Nancy Ajram "Fi Hagat.

More pictures are coming. The internet has been a little slow lately.  The ones that are up are from some Byzantine ruins in the heart of Amman.

Tomorrow morning I leave for a three day trip with the program to visit Wadi Rum, Aqaba and Petra!

Salam!

Jabel al-Qala'a

9/23/2010

Dead Sea mud

Dead Sea, none of them are touching the bottom

View from my hotel

Circles are crazy in Amman, no yielding

A Sense of Fashion

Fashion is very important in Amman.  I have not seen one girl dressed in just jeans and a long sleeve tee.  They are very put together.  Marina, my host sister who also goes to the university, says that there is pressure to dress well and impress the peers. 

Most girls at the university wear the hijab, the veil that covers only their hair.  However, I don't have to look far or long to see girls with their faces covered as well.  Some wear the full gown with the gloves, not showing any skin.  But what I have noticed is that the hijab is very much a part of their style.  The scarf coordinates with the rest of the outfit, and girls will wrap it in various ways, creating a ruffled edge, adding in sequined pins, and so on.  The veil is clearly a part of their wardrobe selection, and it makes a fashion statement. 

It is interesting being in a country where the dress standard is so different.  I am very conscious of when I am showing my forearms or even my collar bones.   Walking next to some of these girls, I feel half dressed.  And dressed poorly in comparison.  Whereas, in the U.S. I would not think twice about a t-shirt or shorts.  And the shoes they wear!  I don't understand how they walk on these sidewalks and roads with 4 inch high heels.  I get blisters from my flip flops and would probably kill myself trying to navigate the streets in treacherous footwear.   

Side note, the card reader does not work.  I will have to keep looking for something with which to upload my pictures.  Going to a flee market today!

Salam! 

Welcome to Jordan

I here this often, mostly from cab drivers, "Welcome to Jordan!"  If I am lucky, they won't take advantage of my lack of Arabic and familiarity with the city.  If I'm unlucky, they won't start the meter in the cab, will charge 5 dinars (whereas any ride in the city will be under 3 dinars), or take a longer route.  Cabs are fun. 

I live in Dbouk, in villa #10.  (Property is not called a villa or an estate for no reason in Amman.)  Dina, my host mom, designed this house, and she calls it her dream home.  It certainly is.  The neighborhood is at the highest point in Amman, neighbor to King Abdullah II himself.  I can see his palace walls two miles away from my courtyard.  The sunsets over the city are wonderful from my vantage point.  Naseem, my 11 year old host brother, took me out to a hill, where we sat and sketched the villas on the opposite hill.   Dina asked if he watched carefully how I draw, and he said, "I memorized."

My host family is very sweet, always "feel right at home," "do whatever you want" and most importantly, "EAT!"  I hear that word every time I come home from class, anytime I do anything.  It's "eat!" "eat!" "eat!"  And Jordanian food is the best.  Dina explained in great length how nowhere else in the Middle East will you find food as good as Jordanian food.  She loves explaining things, for which I am very grateful.  Dina owns her own salon, designed the house, makes delectable sweets, and gardens beautifully. 

Classes started on Sunday, and I am looking forward to learning the colloquial Arabic.  It is very frustrating not speaking the language.  Learning Fasah - the modern standard Arabic - on the other hand, is not going to be a joy ride.  Tareq, my host father, even said that Jordanians don't understand fasah.  Oh well.

I bought a card reader for my camera so I will be uploading pictures soon! 

Salam!

FYI

Marhaba! Some of you asked about sending letters and such.  I have an address, so if you want it, shoot me an email (peters_en@denison.edu) or facebook me and I will give it to you.
Be warned, mail here sometimes has a hard time leaving from or getting to Jordan.  Letters shouldn't be a problem though, insh'allah. 
The best form of communication is skype.  Just send me a message telling me what times are good to talk, and we can set up a skype "date" that way! 
I am using the internet in the hotel.  I don't think my host family will have internet, but we'll see!  I meet them in half an hour!  More later!
Salam!

Marhaba!  I am here, and honestly if this post consisted of only exclamation points, that would suffice.   I don't think I have stopped grinning.   My first full day here was spent at a resort at the Dead Sea for several hours of orientation, lunch of shwarma wraps, and then to do as we please.  Floating in the Dead Sea is such an experience, but having done it before, it is pretty funny to watch 100 students react to bobbing like apples in the water.   I haven't really slept yet because of planes, jet lag, paper thin walls, babies, call to prayer, unidentifiable music, and a head cold.  But chances are good for tonight as I am quite exhausted. 

Some things I have learned:

1)   Hummus does not truly exist outside the Middle East

2)   There is such a thing as a hijab bathing suit: sort of like a wet suit, but with a dress-suit worn over the pants with a hood attached

3)   The toilets don't flush toilet paper, there are trash cans for this purpose

4)   I left my camera cord at home, working on obtaining one to upload pics

5)   New Jersey drivers in roundabouts are nothing compared to Jordanian drivers in their roundabouts.  I am glad I have no opportunity to drive here

6)   Internet is painfully slow – expect a post about once a week, no more

Much love to all!

eve of departure

Hello! Marhaba!  This is my blog, which I will hopefully update with my stories of travel and study in Jordan and the surrounding countries.  Let's do this: I will try to keep the posts short and interesting and you will comment.  Or else this will be a boring monologue and I don't like myself that much.

Well, my trip hasn't started quite yet.  But I am mostly packed, with my bag bursting at the seams, quite literally.  Need to find room for a pillow.  One duffel, one backpack.  Departure time: 6:45 pm tomorrow.  If I was organized enough to keep a checklist, I think everything would be checked off.  Except for those couple "oh, yeah" items scribbled at the bottom of said non-existent checklist.  I've got 23 hours to remember the final items.
Packing is a skill I am still cultivating.
Next post, in Amman!  Or maybe Amsterdam.  I have a 4 hour layover.